Bucks County HeraldAugust 7, 2008

Spain

 

Dear Friends,

 

            Good morning. If you’d have told me a few weeks ago that Mighty Betsy and I would be the beneficiary of a 10-day vacation in Spain, I would have said, “impossible.” But thanks to one of MB’s dearest friends, that’s exactly what happened.

Occasionally, Ellie Penniman takes her two daughters, their husbands and grandchildren to the Mediterranean climes. Spain was this year’s destination in the Barcelona region. Unfortunately for Ellie, one of her daughters backed out at the last minute, so she asked the mighty one if we could substitute…Holy Smokes, Batman, how lucky was that for us?

We learned what the Spanish think about our President and how they compare Senators John McCain and Barack Obama. We discovered that it’s far more difficult for Americans to negotiate security checkpoints at Spanish airports than it is for Europeans. We immersed ourselves in the architectural marvels of Antonin Gaudi. I even found time to row the 2,000-meter course at the site of the 1992 [Barcelona] Summer Olympic games.

            We found the Spanish people to be extremely friendly, though they don’t like President Bush. Everywhere we traveled, we encountered people who couldn’t wait to try out their English. My Spanish skill is just about zero…I mix up the French, Italian, and Spanish languages so those hearing my attempts roll their eyes, laugh, and switch to English.

            Most Europeans speak several languages…we don’t, alas. I think that it would make sense for all American school children to learn Spanish and Chinese…but I doubt that I’ll convince legislators anytime soon.

            In several restaurants, I found employees who volunteered their displeasure with George W. They were equally quick to give their opinions about McCain and Obama. As he demonstrated in Germany, Obama has rock star appeal in Spain. My guess is that Europe is yearning for a hero. Is America too? We’ll see.

            The farmhouse, which became our headquarters, was about a two-hour drive north of Barcelona and 30 miles south of the French border. We overlooked a meadow, which a shepherd used to collect his sheep each evening. Two dogs helped him control the animals by whistling. The Pyrenees Mountains were in full view.

            I wondered why sundown was one hour later than it is in Quakertown although the latitudes are similar? The Barcelona region is very close to the west side of the Meridian time zone. The eastern edge of the time zone borders Warsaw, Poland. I noted that my hometown is on the eastern edge of the Eastern Time zone. Does the sun set one hour later in the western edge of Ohio…even though it’s still in the Eastern Time zone?

            I need a scientist to help me.

            At midweek, I found Lake Estany (Banyoles) where Olympians competed in the ’92 rowing events. The Spanish team was practicing for the Beijing Olympics (in just a few days). Their coach couldn’t have been more hospitable. When he discovered that I row in Philadelphia, he invited me to row a single shell on their racecourse. The Spanish team was training…my mission was to stay out of their way. Their crews wore dashing uniforms with the Spanish colors…golden yellow and red.

It was quite a sight. I rowed as hard as I could, but their crews thundered past me like I was standing still. Will someone please explain to me why a 73-year-older can’t row as fast as a twenty year old?

            One of the Barcelona highlights was touring the buildings and sculptures of Antonin Gaudi a most unusual architect and sculptor (1852-1926). Although the Temple of the Sacred Family has been a work in progress for 500 years, it’s hard to miss Gaudi’s influence.

            The ancient Greek and Roman ruins at L’Escala were amazing…dating back to 300 BC. Teams of archeologists have recreated life along this Mediterranean town. It’s quite a contrast between the modern world and the old.

            Finally, we visited the Jewish ghettoes in Girona. Archeologists have rediscovered these areas, 500 years after they were abandoned. Because of the Spanish [Christian] Inquisition the Jewish presence was nearly eradicated.                  

            Leaving Barcelona was more difficult than our entry. Security personnel ordered Americans to negotiate three separate checkpoints. I noticed that travelers going to Spanish and European destinations only went through one. Why the different treatment, I wondered?

            Because we were traveling to America, we were presumed to be Americans, the agent told us. Terrorists apparently try to smuggle explosives on board via unsuspecting travelers. Since Americans, British, and Israeli citizens are targets for terrorists, we were searched more frequently.

Now that’s enough to make one weak, as my friend Phil Miller used to say.

            Mighty Betsy noted that we occasionally passed highway “hookers” sitting on lawn chairs along the busy thoroughfares. Prostitutes [ladies of the night, as MB calls them] are not prosecuted in Spain…but their pimps are. MB covered my eyes to insure that I didn’t see them, so I failed to get an interview, alas. I’d best close this column before I lurch into trouble.

 

            Sincerely,

            Charles Meredith